<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>OneToRemember &#38; EnergyBook &#187; Book collecting</title>
	<atom:link href="http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/category/book-collecting/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog</link>
	<description>Support Site and FAQ</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 21 May 2010 12:45:06 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0</generator>
		<item>
		<title>How to identify a First Edition</title>
		<link>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2010/05/how-to-identify-a-first-edition-2/</link>
		<comments>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2010/05/how-to-identify-a-first-edition-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 09 May 2010 20:04:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OneToRemember</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Book collecting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OneToRemember]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2010/05/how-to-identify-a-first-edition-2/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Date The publication date is the natural starting point when when it comes to appraising your book. Generally speaking you should not see dates other than the original publication date. You may see two dates such as a copyright date and a &#8216;First Published&#8217; date and these can differ slightly though not usually by more [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Date</span></strong><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The publication date is the natural starting point when when it comes to appraising your book. Generally speaking you should not see dates other than the original publication date.<br />
You may see two dates such as a copyright date and a &#8216;First Published&#8217; date and these can differ slightly though not usually by more than a year. You may also see a different date referring to publication in another country, these are not necessarily problematic.</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Printing Statement</span></strong><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Most publishers are helpful when it comes this and clearly state: &#8216;<a name="047001881X"></a>&#8216; &#8211; &#8216;Third Impression&#8217; &#8216;Reprinted in&#8230;&#8217; etc etc. Clearly any mention of these terms indicates a reprint. However things are often not so easy and a book can clearly state &#8216;<a name="9562912000"></a>&#8216; or &#8216;first printed&#8217; without mention of another edition or date and still be a reprint.<br />
Publishers often reprinted using the same plates as the first, sometimes for years afterwards.</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Undated Books</span></strong><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">If a book shows no dates at all then the balance of probability suggests it more likely to be a later edition. However, as usual, there are many exceptions. Specialised bibliographies would need to be consulted before any final decision can be made. A very useful resource in recent years is the online access to the world&#8217;s <a href="http://www.booksellerworld.com/libraries.htm">reference libraries</a> which will supply you with a publication date, and in many cases indicate whether or not that book was dated or not.</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Printers Key &#8211; Number Line</span></strong><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">A relatively new method of indicating edition status has been adopted by many publishers, that being the printers key, often referred to as the number line. This method shows a line of numbers on the copyright page, usually between 10 and 1. The sequence of the numbers varies between publishers but the basic principal remains the same (apart from a few exceptions) a first issue-edition-impression requires the presence of the number 1.For example 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 indicates a first printing. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 would indicate a second printing and so forth.</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Dust Wrappers &#8211; Jackets</span></strong><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">To make life yet more difficult as well as ascertaining that status of your book you also need to do the same for the dustwrapper or jacket. As mentioned previously reprints can appear the same as firsts with differences shown only on the dw. Always check for reviews or for titles post dating the book. The published price can often be an issue when it comes to later or so called cheap editions. There are genuine <a href="http://www.booksellerworld.com/glossary-bookterms.htm">issue points</a> on some jackets that determine the printing of the book but the biggest potential problem is when later state wrappers find their way onto first edition books. This can usually be determined by rudimentary checks though specialised bibliographies may need to be consulted</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Book Club Editions</span></strong><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Book club editions are a source of great confusion to many and are regularly mis-sold as <a name="9562912000"></a>, usually out of ignorance but occasionally not ! For collectors of UK first editions this is less of a problem than it is for collectors of American editions. UK book clubs are usually clearly stated as such, there is an absence of original publisher logos, unpriced jackets etc. Very often the books are much smaller in size or indeed a completely different format.<br />
Things are very much more complex when it comes to American firsts when a book may appear exactly the same as a first to the uninitiated. The complexities and variations are so great that it goes well beyond the scope of this article to give a definitive guide. There are some excellent publications however that can aid the collector with specific issue points and we would recommend referring to them. The other safeguard is to buy from an established and reputable dealer who can eliminate these concerns.</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.<a href="http://www.onetoremember.biz"rel="external"title="OneToRemember" >OneToRemember</a>.co.uk</span></span></p>
<p><a class="a2a_dd addtoany_share_save" href="http://www.addtoany.com/share_save?linkurl=http%3A%2F%2Fonetoremember.co.uk%2Fblog%2F2010%2F05%2Fhow-to-identify-a-first-edition-2%2F&amp;linkname=How%20to%20identify%20a%20First%20Edition"><img src="http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/wp-content/plugins/add-to-any/share_save_171_16.png" width="171" height="16" alt="Share/Bookmark"/></a> </p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2010/05/how-to-identify-a-first-edition-2/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>John Seymour</title>
		<link>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/john-seymour/</link>
		<comments>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/john-seymour/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:28:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OneToRemember</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Authors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Book collecting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OneToRemember]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[john seymour]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/?p=23</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[John Seymour (12 June 1914 – 14 September 2004) was an influential figure in the self-sufficiency movement. Precise categorisation is difficult: he was a writer, broadcaster, environmentalist, smallholder and activist; a rebel against: consumerisation, industrialisation, genetically modified organisms, cities, motor cars; and an advocate for: self-reliance, personal responsibility, self-sufficiency, conviviality (food, drink, dancing and singing), gardening, caring for the Earth and for the soil.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">John Seymour</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">For books by John Seymour click here</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">John Seymour (12 June 1914 – 14 September 2004) was an influential figure in the self-sufficiency movement. Precise categorisation is difficult: he was a writer, broadcaster, environmentalist, smallholder and activist; a rebel against: consumerisation, industrialisation, genetically modified organisms, cities, motor cars; and an advocate for: self-reliance, personal responsibility, self-sufficiency, conviviality (food, drink, dancing and singing), gardening, caring for the Earth and for the soil.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">John Seymour was born in London, England; his father died when he was very young, his mother remarried and the family moved to Frinton-on-Sea in north-east Essex. A fashionable seaside town with a golf club, a tennis club and a population of 2,000 might seem an unlikely place to develop Seymour&#8217;s later philosophy of life. It was however surrounded by agricultural land, where the horse was king; the sea was on his doorstep, there were quiet backwaters where he could learn to sail within a couple of miles of his home. The life lead by those on the land and in small boats would have laid a foundation for his later vision of a simple cottage economy with farming and fishing providing the essentials of life.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">After schooling in England and Switzerland Seymour studied agriculture at Wye College, which was then a school of the University of London.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">In 1934, at the age of 20, he went to Southern Africa where his wish to experience life took him in through a succession of jobs. In the Karoo as a farmhand and then manager of a sheep farm; from Walvis Bay in South-West Africa (now Namibia) as a deckhand, later as a skipper, on fishing boats; in Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia) in copper mines as a trainee mining engineer; later working for the Northern Rhodesia Veterinary Service as a livestock officer; making a game survey of the Luangwa River valley for the Game Department. Whilst in Africa he spent some time with bushmen where he gained friendship and an insight into the life of hunter gatherers.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">1939 to 1951</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">At the start of World War II in 1939 John Seymour travelled to Kenya where he enlisted in the Kenya Regiment and was posted to the King&#8217;s African Rifles, a colonial regiment of the British army with white officers. He fought with them against Italy in the Abyssinian Campaign in Ethiopia. After defeating the Italians the regiment was posted to Sri Lanka (then a British colony called Ceylon) and afterwards to Burma where allied forces were fighting against Japan. For Seymour the war ended on a low note, he expressed his disgust when the Allies used fission bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">On arrival in Britain after the war Seymour worked for a while on a Thames sailing barge, these traditional craft were still operating around the south and east coasts of England, here he picked up the folk songs of a disappearing occupation. After working as a civil servant (labour officer for the Agricultural Committee) finding agricultural work for German prisoners of war (some had still not returned home in 1950) he found an opening into broadcasting when he created a series of short programmes on the BBC Home Service (now Radio 4), speaking on subjects that interested him. He then travelled overland to India for the BBC gaining experience of the subsistence farming still common in eastern Europe and the Asia. His experiences on this journey led to his first book The Hard Way to India, published in 1951.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">The Smallholdings</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">Seymour was living aboard a Dutch sailing smack when he married Sally Medworth, an Australian potter and artist, in 1954. In this they travelled around the waterways and rivers of England and Holland, journeys later described in Sailing through England. As their first daughter grew older they felt that a landbase would be more suitable. They leased two isolated cottages on 5 acres (2 hectares) of land near Orford in Suffolk. The manner in which they fell into self-sufficiency on this smallholding is recounted in The Fat of the Land (1961).</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">At the beginning of the 1970s the family moved to a farm near Newport in Pembrokeshire. This decade saw Seymour&#8217;s publication rate reach a maximum, In 1976 The Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency was published, a guide for real and dreaming downshifters. Published shortly after E. F. Schumacher&#8217;s Small is Beautiful &#8211; a study of economics as if people mattered (1973) and, more mundanely, The Good Life&#8217;s first showing on British television (1975), the sales of the new book exceeded all expectations. It was also set to establish the reputation of two young publishers, Christopher Dorling and Peter Kindersley who had commissioned and edited the work. His writing was not restricted to self-sufficiency: he wrote four guide books in the Companion Guide series and was now being asked to speak of his vision at conferences.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">In the 1970s and 1980s he was also making television programmes: an early series followed the footsteps of George Borrow&#8217;s Wild Wales (1862), later he spent three years making the BBC series Far From Paradise (with Herbert Girardet) which examined the history of human impact on the environment.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="position: absolute; left: -10000px; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden;">His farm in Wales welcomed visitors seeking guidance on the smallholders life a project which expanded to the School for Self-Sufficiency when he moved to County Wexford in Ireland during the 1980s. Here in 1999 he was taken to court for damaging a crop of GM sugar beet.</div>
<p><strong>John Seymour</strong></p>
<p><a title="john seymour books" href="http://www.onetoremember.co.uk/cart.php?target=search&amp;substring=john+seymour" target="_blank">For books by John Seymour click here</a></p>
<div id="attachment_25" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 190px"><img class="size-full wp-image-25" title="seymour" src="http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/seymour.jpg" alt="John Seymour" width="180" height="212" /><p class="wp-caption-text">John Seymour</p></div>
<p>John Seymour (12 June 1914 – 14 September 2004) was an influential figure in the self-sufficiency movement. Precise categorisation is difficult: he was a writer, broadcaster, environmentalist, smallholder and activist; a rebel against: consumerisation, industrialisation, genetically modified organisms, cities, motor cars; and an advocate for: self-reliance, personal responsibility, self-sufficiency, conviviality (food, drink, dancing and singing), gardening, caring for the Earth and for the soil.</p>
<p>John Seymour was born in London, England; his father died when he was very young, his mother remarried and the family moved to Frinton-on-Sea in north-east Essex. A fashionable seaside town with a golf club, a tennis club and a population of 2,000 might seem an unlikely place to develop Seymour&#8217;s later philosophy of life. It was however surrounded by agricultural land, where the horse was king; the sea was on his doorstep, there were quiet backwaters where he could learn to sail within a couple of miles of his home. The life lead by those on the land and in small boats would have laid a foundation for his later vision of a simple cottage economy with farming and fishing providing the essentials of life.</p>
<p>After schooling in England and Switzerland Seymour studied agriculture at Wye College, which was then a school of the University of London.</p>
<p>In 1934, at the age of 20, he went to Southern Africa where his wish to experience life took him in through a succession of jobs. In the Karoo as a farmhand and then manager of a sheep farm; from Walvis Bay in South-West Africa (now Namibia) as a deckhand, later as a skipper, on fishing boats; in Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia) in copper mines as a trainee mining engineer; later working for the Northern Rhodesia Veterinary Service as a livestock officer; making a game survey of the Luangwa River valley for the Game Department. Whilst in Africa he spent some time with bushmen where he gained friendship and an insight into the life of hunter gatherers.</p>
<p><strong>1939 to 1951</strong></p>
<p>At the start of World War II in 1939 John Seymour travelled to Kenya where he enlisted in the Kenya Regiment and was posted to the King&#8217;s African Rifles, a colonial regiment of the British army with white officers. He fought with them against Italy in the Abyssinian Campaign in Ethiopia. After defeating the Italians the regiment was posted to Sri Lanka (then a British colony called Ceylon) and afterwards to Burma where allied forces were fighting against Japan. For Seymour the war ended on a low note, he expressed his disgust when the Allies used fission bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.</p>
<div id="attachment_26" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 199px"><img class="size-full wp-image-26" title="seymour 2" src="http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/seymour-2.jpg" alt="John Seymour" width="189" height="150" /><p class="wp-caption-text">John Seymour</p></div>
<p>On arrival in Britain after the war Seymour worked for a while on a Thames sailing barge, these traditional craft were still operating around the south and east coasts of England, here he picked up the folk songs of a disappearing occupation. After working as a civil servant (labour officer for the Agricultural Committee) finding agricultural work for German prisoners of war (some had still not returned home in 1950) he found an opening into broadcasting when he created a series of short programmes on the BBC Home Service (now Radio 4), speaking on subjects that interested him. He then travelled overland to India for the BBC gaining experience of the subsistence farming still common in eastern Europe and the Asia. His experiences on this journey led to his first book The Hard Way to India, published in 1951.</p>
<p><strong>The Smallholdings</strong></p>
<p>Seymour was living aboard a Dutch sailing smack when he married Sally Medworth, an Australian potter and artist, in 1954. In this they travelled around the waterways and rivers of England and Holland, journeys later described in Sailing through England. As their first daughter grew older they felt that a landbase would be more suitable. They leased two isolated cottages on 5 acres (2 hectares) of land near Orford in Suffolk. The manner in which they fell into self-sufficiency on this smallholding is recounted in The Fat of the Land (1961).</p>
<p>At the beginning of the 1970s the family moved to a farm near Newport in Pembrokeshire. This decade saw Seymour&#8217;s publication rate reach a maximum, In 1976 The Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency was published, a guide for real and dreaming downshifters. Published shortly after E. F. Schumacher&#8217;s Small is Beautiful &#8211; a study of economics as if people mattered (1973) and, more mundanely, The Good Life&#8217;s first showing on British television (1975), the sales of the new book exceeded all expectations. It was also set to establish the reputation of two young publishers, Christopher Dorling and Peter Kindersley who had commissioned and edited the work. His writing was not restricted to self-sufficiency: he wrote four guide books in the Companion Guide series and was now being asked to speak of his vision at conferences.</p>
<p>In the 1970s and 1980s he was also making television programmes: an early series followed the footsteps of George Borrow&#8217;s Wild Wales (1862), later he spent three years making the BBC series Far From Paradise (with Herbert Girardet) which examined the history of human impact on the environment.</p>
<p>His farm in Wales welcomed visitors seeking guidance on the smallholders life a project which expanded to the School for Self-Sufficiency when he moved to County Wexford in Ireland during the 1980s. Here in 1999 he was taken to court for damaging a crop of GM sugar beet.</p>
<div><a title="john seymour books" href="http://www.onetoremember.co.uk/cart.php?target=search&amp;substring=john+seymour" target="_blank">For books by John Seymour click here</a></div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/john-seymour/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to grade a book</title>
		<link>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/how-to-grade-a-book/</link>
		<comments>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/how-to-grade-a-book/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:11:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OneToRemember</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Book collecting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OneToRemember]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[books]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/?p=21</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here are some definitions to help you grade a book]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Technical Terms and Descriptions</span></h3>
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Internationally Accepted Definitions</span></h3>
<p style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;" align="left">
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Very Fine or Mint &#8211; VF or M</span></h3>
<table border="0" width="90%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Using very fine or mint, they mean the same, is something to be done with care.<br />
These terms are relatively new and not accepted by some dealers and collectors, mainly in the antiquarian area. This description is, in our humble opinion, now necessary though. There has been a huge rise in the collectability of ultra-moderns or hyper-moderns and condition is even more critical in this area than others. Collectors are VERY particular.</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">The book and jacket have to be absolutely pristine with no faults at all, however minor. Many brand new books in bookshops do not live up to this grade, so it is not to be confused with &#8216;as new&#8217;</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Fine &#8211; F</span></h3>
<table border="0" width="90%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">To qualify as a fine copy it should be free from obvious faults. That is not to say absolutely perfect. It can show minor signs of age and ownership. The book should be clean, tightly bound and square. The dust jacket should be free from loss or tears and any real faults or blemishes. This grade carries a little age related room, it does allow for some loss of freshness and commonsense in relation to the books age. It is acceptable to have a previous owners name, though this should always be noted in the description</span>.<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">There is also a legitimate intermediate grade of &#8216;near fine&#8217; this would denote a copy that does not quite meet the exacting standards but must still be a very nice copy. Sometimes used as a safety net b y cautious dealers.</span></span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Very Good &#8211; VG</span></h3>
<table border="0" width="90%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Very good is a fairly broad term and more difficult to describe. Because of this many dealers employ sub-grades such as VG+ or VG-. Basically it covers a condition that one might expect to find second-hand books in. That is to say, books have been clearly read and handled, dustwrappers may show loss, tears and wear. Fault should be mentioned separately such as inscription stamps, chipping and tears to the wrapper. Despite displaying some faults the item should still qualify as a collectable copy to qualify for this grading</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Good &#8211; G</span></h3>
<table border="0" width="90%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Good is a somewhat misleading term and has done much to cloud the defining of book condition. Basically it means bad ! There can be some fairly major faults with both book or jacket. Once again we would recommend mentioning these individually. Unless a book is very rare, and or expensive, good only copies should be avoided by collectors</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Poor &#8211; P</span></h3>
<table border="0" width="90%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Poor is basically a train wreck of a copy, expectations should be very low if buying such a copy. This term allows for just about anything it seems, major faults, mark, soiling, even on the verge of being disbound</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 style="font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Some Other Points</span></h3>
<table border="0" width="90%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Reading Copy</strong><br />
A copy that is flawed and is generally not suitable for a collector but is more suited to someone looking for a copy simply to read</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Price Clipped-Clipping</strong><br />
There is no need to down grade the condition of a jacket if the price has been clipped from it. However it MUST always be mentioned</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Names, Inscriptions, Stamps or Remainder Marks</strong><br />
These flaws should be mentioned without exception</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 11px; color: #4f5964; font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Ex Library</strong><br />
Copies that have been in public libraries are very common, this should always be declared as should a description or stamps, pockets, missing endpapers or a library binding</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/how-to-grade-a-book/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to identify a first edition</title>
		<link>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/how-to-identify-a-first-edition/</link>
		<comments>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/how-to-identify-a-first-edition/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:04:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OneToRemember</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Book collecting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OneToRemember]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[books]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/?p=16</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here are a few ways to identify a first edition.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Date</strong><br />
The publication date is the natural starting point when when it comes to appraising your book. Generally speaking you should not see dates other than the original publication date.<br />
You may see two dates such as a copyright date and a &#8216;First Published&#8217; date and these can differ slightly though not usually by more than a year. You may also see a different date referring to publication in another country, these are not necessarily problematic.</p>
<p><strong>Printing Statement</strong><br />
Most publishers are helpful when it comes this and clearly state: &#8216;Second Edition&#8217; &#8211; &#8216;Third Impression&#8217; &#8216;Reprinted in&#8230;&#8217; etc etc. Clearly any mention of these terms indicates a reprint. However things are often not so easy and a book can clearly state &#8216;first edition&#8217; or &#8216;first printed&#8217; without mention of another edition or date and still be a reprint.<br />
Publishers often reprinted using the same plates as the first, sometimes for years afterwards.</p>
<p><strong>Undated Books</strong><br />
If a book shows no dates at all then the balance of probability suggests it more likely to be a later edition. However, as usual, there are many exceptions. Specialised bibliographies would need to be consulted before any final decision can be made. A very useful resource in recent years is the online access to the world&#8217;s reference libraries which will supply you with a publication date, and in many cases indicate whether or not that book was dated or not.</p>
<p><strong>Printers Key &#8211; Number Line</strong><br />
A relatively new method of indicating edition status has been adopted by many publishers, that being the printers key, often referred to as the number line. This method shows a line of numbers on the copyright page, usually between 10 and 1. The sequence of the numbers varies between publishers but the basic principal remains the same (apart from a few exceptions) a first issue-edition-impression requires the presence of the number 1.For example 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 indicates a first printing. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 would indicate a second printing and so forth.</p>
<p><strong>Dust Wrappers &#8211; Jackets</strong><br />
To make life yet more difficult as well as ascertaining that status of your book you also need to do the same for the dustwrapper or jacket. As mentioned previously reprints can appear the same as firsts with differences shown only on the dw. Always check for reviews or for titles post dating the book. The published price can often be an issue when it comes to later or so called cheap editions. There are genuine issue points on some jackets that determine the printing of the book but the biggest potential problem is when later state wrappers find their way onto first edition books. This can usually be determined by rudimentary checks though specialised bibliographies may need to be consulted</p>
<p><strong>Book Club Editions</strong><br />
Book club editions are a source of great confusion to many and are regularly mis-sold as first editions, usually out of ignorance but occasionally not ! For collectors of UK first editions this is less of a problem than it is for collectors of American editions. UK book clubs are usually clearly stated as such, there is an absence of original publisher logos, unpriced jackets etc. Very often the books are much smaller in size or indeed a completely different format.<br />
Things are very much more complex when it comes to American firsts when a book may appear exactly the same as a first to the uninitiated. The complexities and variations are so great that it goes well beyond the scope of this article to give a definitive guide. There are some excellent publications however that can aid the collector with specific issue points and we would recommend referring to them. The other safeguard is to buy from an established and reputable dealer who can eliminate these concerns.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://onetoremember.co.uk/blog/2009/07/how-to-identify-a-first-edition/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
